The argument can be made that Lolo Lorena is one of the best restaurants on Isla Mujeres. It is certainly the most interesting. Serving a limited number of people (maximum of sixteen) with a set menu that changes nightly is nothing new, but when you add the eclectic setting, the ability to bring your own wine without a corkage fee, and the high quality of the food, this is the place for serious eaters.Read More
I don’t think it is stretching it to call our visit to New Mexico and Colorado “Latin Journeys”. Colorado means red in Spanish, and New Mexico is probably the most Hispanic state in the U.S. Our three-week trip to the U.S. started off with a definitely un-latin journey – Missouri.Read More
EDITOR’S NOTE: This is the last in a series of stories from our work and travel in South America December 2009 through February 2010. Every effort has been made to provide updated information.
After an amazing month of visiting Cuzco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, it was time for us to head south toward Bolivia. Luckily, our route would take us by scenic Lake Titicaca.
Lake Titcaca sits on the Peru/Bolivia border and is the world’s highest navigable lake for commercial traffic. At, 12,500′ the climate is cold and dry, and living conditions are challenging. Indigenous people inhabit several islands worth visiting in the lake. One of the more interesting sites is the floating islands of Uros.
They are called the floating islands, because they are actually floating islands, built from reeds cut from the shallow areas of the lake. The reeds are piled high enough that they float, with the downside being that they become waterlogged and need to have more reeds piled on. Walking on the island feels like walking on a large water bed.Read More
Toward the end of our work and travel in Peru, Bolivia and Argentina we had a week or two to decide where to visit from our Buenos Aires base. Pantanal? Estancias? Uruguay or Montevideo? How about one of the natural wonders of the world, Iguazu Falls?
Iguazu isn’t exactly next door to Buenos Aires. Only Patagonia would be further out of the neighborhood. Which meant airfare there would be expensive (foreigners pay a higher rate for domestic airfare than Argentines). But, we discovered we could take our favorite mode of travel to Iguazu – the cama bus. We could buy a first-class bus ticket which included seats that folded nearly flat into a bed; sparkling wine and proscuitto for starters, and malbec and beef for dinner. A traveler can read or watch one of a couple of movies on the private screen at each seat and arrive in the morning. The cost was around $180 USD round trip compared to $350 USD round trip airfare. Today the costs are $310 USD bus RT and $464 USD airfare RT.
Iguazu Falls are on the Iguazu River which forms the border between Argentina and Brazil. It is considered one of the premiere parks in South America, both for the natural beauty and the impressive, natural infrastructure the Argentine government has installed. The falls span a linear distance of nearly 2.7 kilometers (1.7 miles) with the river broken up by islands on the fall’s edges. Sturdy, metal platforms reach between the islands, taking visitors to the most impressive falls.
Most of the river pours through a narrow horseshoe-shaped area called the Devils Throat (garganta del diablo), which is 82 meters high and 700 meters long. The sound and the spray are impressive. I forgot my umbrella.Read More
EDITORS NOTE: As we spend most of the summer working at home on Cozumel, we are publishing a series of stories from our travels through Peru, Bolivia and Argentina in 2009 and 2010. Enjoy!
Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia. January 7, 2010
As the bus negotiated the switchbacks down the mountain, the wide valley of Uyuni and the salt flats spread out before us. At least it did on paper, since the current dust storm blowing through the valley obscured what probably was a fine view.
The highway into town was lined with wire fences and scrub brush adorned with hundreds of plastic bags, setting the stage for the grim town of Uyuni. Other than being annoyed by the howling wind, and hoping it would stop or calm down, we weren’t fazed by the ugliness of Uyuni, because we were here for a four-day trip through the magnificent Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest and highest salt flats.
Our arrival during the first week of January was perfect. It was during the rainy season and the vast salt flats had been turned into a vast lake with a surreal mirror effect.
After a night in a basic guest house, we met our driver, Fredi, and his wife, our cook for the next four days. We had chosen Licancabur Tours, primarily because none of the online forums dissed them, a few praised them, and they gave us a good price for a one-way trip to Tapiza. They also seemed to understand that the trip was about the photo opportunities, just not seeing the requisite sites, and would be our jumping off point for Argentina.Read More
One of the attractions of a Spanish class in San Cristóbal, Chiapas during the first two weeks of December is the celebration for the Virgin de Guadalupe.
The fiesta runs from December 1 – 12, and features many events, including processions of indigenous people going to the Iglesia de Guadalupe.